Nepal (Nov 2001)

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Journal Entry: This is our first travel to Asia. This was also our first international travel for an extended time period. We plan to travel for more than 3 months. 24 hours ago we left our daughter's home at 9pm and walked to the corner bus stop to catch the bus to the San Diego airport for the start of this big adventure. We flew from there to LAX, Los Angeles International Airport to catch our international flight to Taipei which left about midnight.

It sounds simple as I write it. But 6 weeks ago the New York World Trade Towers were collapsed by people from the Middle East. Emotionally that experience has thrown me off balance and I am still wondering if I am safe to travel. I have researched and think that I am safe, but some doubt flutters in the back of my mind and it tires me.

Sat 11:00am - I am now in Bangkok, Thailand on sensory overload. We will stay here for a couple of days in this more developed country, before going on to Nepal, to get over some of the jet lag  We have gotten a room in a central area called Banglamphu near the Chao Phraya River.

I know that other people have traveled independently and found their way in Asian countries. But this is my first experience and it is taking more energy than I anticipated to figure it all out. I explored a few streets, but couldn't figure out where I was from the road signs. Their written script is not familiar. I found my way back just by retracing my steps.

Sat 4:00pm - It is later now. The hotel where we are staying has Internet access on the first floor. I read and sent some e-mails and it helped restore my sense of the familiar. We then walked to Wat Phra Kaew. Wat obviously means temple. I have figured out that the first word on street signs means street or avenue, so the definitive words are second or third. Realizing that, has helped me find my way.

I don't know why their electrical wiring doesn't blow the fuse to the whole city. Wires are tangled around wires and connected in a big jumbled mess.

Sun 1:00pm - We have now been here in Bangkok for 2 days and will be flying on to Kathmandu tomorrow morning. It has been a good transition stop. My skills at finding my way around are are coming into focus. Everything is strange, but not as 'startling' as it was the first few hours. I find I can only go out for a couple of hours before I have to retreat and rest in my room. It is the tail end of monsoon season and when it rains it is like a warm waterfall.

Mon 3:00pm - Bangkok, Thailand seems tame compared to Kathmandu, Nepal!

The flight into Kathmandu was magical. I sat on the right of the plane and could see the Himalayas clearly against the crystal blue sky. Multi-story houses dotted the hills below us. I was full of excitement and sure that I could do anything. No Problem!

Our aircraft rolled to a stop out in the middle of the tarmac. All of a sudden irrational 9-11 fears kicked in. There were only 2 other aircraft at the airport. One was from Pakistan and the other from Bangledesh. Thoughts were yelling and clamoring to fill every space in my mind, "...friends told me to cancel my over seas travel..." and "...I'm going to die here and never see my grandson again...", "...they are going to know I am from the U.S. and they hate us..".

Fear like that is irrational and I knew it. I worked hard to get a grip of myself while we disembarked, walked down the antiquated roll up stairs and across the tarmac to the building.

Needless to say, I wasn't killed enroute to the building. Once inside, customs was only mildly confusing. I followed the others in front of me, filled out the forms and paid some money. In one moment we walked through a door into the bright outside sunlight. Literally a hundred men were in my face wanting us to take their taxi to a hotel they recommended. It was overwhelming. I was speechless and froze but not for long. We wanted to check out the Mt Annapurna Guest House and negotiated with a driver to take us there.

His car was dilapidated, but no one else's was better. We climbed in and 2 of his friends climbed in also. Apparently it is quite customary, if a driver has a paying customer the driver gives his friends who need a ride a lift also. We drove quickly down back roads, across a field, picked up another friend, passed roosters, cows and small children in the unpaved rutted road and finally came to the narrow walkway of the guest house.

We paid $10 for their best room, on the 5th floor with a bathroom, shower and a view of Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple. I was tired from the stress but excited about exploring my new surrounding. Outside I felt as if I was in a time warp.

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